Start with the paperwork
Before you look at the car, look at the paper trail. Ask for the registration papers and confirm the VIN on the dashboard matches the plates and the paperwork. Check the odometer reading on the service logbooks against the dashboard — if the numbers don't stack up, walk away.
Ask for the service logbooks. A full history of logbook stamps from a licensed repairer is one of the best indicators of how a car's been maintained. Not every private seller will have logbooks, but every good dealer should be able to tell you about the history they've verified.
Walk around the outside
In good daylight, walk slowly around the car and look along each panel from a low angle. Uneven gaps between panels, mismatched paint texture, or colour that looks slightly different under different lighting can indicate previous panel repairs or a respray. None of this is automatically a dealbreaker, but you should know about it before you buy.
Check the tyres for even wear across the tread. Uneven wear (more on one edge than the other) can indicate alignment or suspension problems. Check all four tyres, including any spare.
Under the bonnet
You don't need to be a mechanic, but a few quick checks are worth doing. Look for oil on the engine, on hoses, or around the oil cap — small amounts of surface grime are normal, but excessive oil is a warning sign. Check the coolant level (with the engine cold). Look at the condition of the belts. If the engine bay looks like it's been recently power-washed, ask why.
The test drive — don't skip it
A test drive should be at least 20 minutes and include a mix of speeds — some urban driving and some open road if you can. Listen for rattles, vibrations, or pulling to one side under braking. Test every button, the air conditioning, the heated seats if it has them, and the windows. These repairs seem minor but add up quickly.
On the highway, take your hands very lightly off the wheel. The car should track straight. If it wanders or the steering wheel is off-centre, that's worth investigating.
Get an independent inspection
If you're seriously interested, consider paying for an independent pre-purchase inspection from a qualified mechanic who has no relationship with the seller. This typically costs $150–$300 and is one of the best $300 you'll spend on a used car. A good inspector will put the car on a hoist, check the undercarriage, run a diagnostic scan, and give you a written report.
Any reputable dealer should be comfortable with an independent inspection. If a seller pushes back on this, treat that as a red flag.
Buying from a licensed dealer vs private
When you buy from a licensed WA motor vehicle dealer, you are buying from a business that is registered, traceable and legally accountable for how it sells cars. Private sales are "buyer beware" — the seller has no ongoing obligation to you once the money changes hands.
That doesn't mean private sales are always a bad idea, but it does mean you need to do more of your own due diligence upfront.
Trust your gut
If something feels off — the seller is evasive, the paperwork is incomplete, the car smells unusual, or you feel pressured to decide quickly — it's fine to walk away. There will be another car.
Looking for a car that's already been checked properly?
Every Carlane car comes with a verified service history and an independent mechanical inspection before it goes on the lot. Get in touch to find out what we have available.
General information only, not legal or financial advice.